A city like Beirut is almost impossible to define. Over its 5,000-year history, it has bucked such attempts by locals and foreigners alike, consistently upending their predictions, hopes and condemnations. But here’s my best attempt at a portrait of Lebanon's capital, a place that has eluded both real stability and real change. I moved to Beirut in 2013, fresh out of university and curious to explore a city I had never spent much time in as a Lebanese child raised in the United States. Our yearly summer trips to my parents’ homeland had been strictly dedicated to family time in an idyllic mountainside town, where the urban chaos of the capital appeared as a polluted smudge on a faraway coastline. People walk near "I love Beirut" sign at downtown Beirut. REUTERS/Mohamed Azakir Sin...
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