“The mysterious and sublime seal that unites Europe to Asia,” was how the French writer Gérard de Nerval wrote of Istanbul in the 19th century after visiting what he called the most beautiful city in the world.
Turkey’s largest city has changed immensely over the last two centuries, and even since I first arrived here in 2009, yet it retains an alluring power that has enchanted travellers throughout history, witha breathtaking setting straddling the European and Asian shores of the Bosphorus Strait. After 16 years of living here — first as a student and then as a journalist, most recently as a breaking news correspondent for Reuters — I am still astonished by the vibrancy and rich culture of this city of 16 million people. Walking through its streets, you can’t help but feel the weight of history spanning the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman empires, as well as its contemporary energy.
Here’s my guide on how to explore the city like a local:
Getting around: Istanbul is a big city andnotorious for its frequent traffic jams, so mastering the public transport system is essential. Avoid buses and taxis at peak times — when what should be ashort 15-minute drive can easily stretch to over an hour — and opt for the metro or local ferry lines instead. Ferries are a crucial form of transportation for numerous residents who rely on them to travel to work every day. If the weather is good, I like to sit outside to feel the breeze and feed some traditional simit breadto seagulls that accompany the boats. These rides usually take between 15 to 20 minutes, but if you want something longer to soak in the amazing scenery, there are multiple ferry lines that tourthe whole Bosphorus.
Istanbul — known as ‘the city on seven hills’ — is not flat, so if you prefer to explore on foot, I advise youto plan a route starting from the top. I like to start at the main Taksim Square and head towards the Karaköy and Eminönü neighbourhoods, where you can wander past the shops on Istiklal Street, visit the historicGalata Tower or get lost in the colourful and fragrant Spice Bazaar.
What to see: Istanbul is perhaps most famous for the great mosque of the Hagia Sophia. Lesser known, but also well worth a visit, are the city’s modern art museums. The ones I like to visit are Arter in Dolapdere and Sakıp Sabancı Museum in Emirgan, both of which feature permanent collections and visiting artists.
The Asian side of the city is also a part of Istanbul often overlooked by travellers. I recommend taking a ferry to the hip neighbourhood of Kadıköy, where you’ll find a lively nightlife with many bars, taverns and pubs, live music with local bands, and places to dance till the sun goes up. My favorites are Güneşin Sofrası and Ağaç Ev Kadıköy.
What to eat and drink: Istanbul’s food scene draws from influences across the country and boasts several fine dining restaurants that reinterpret traditional Turkish food with new recipes. I like to visit Apartıman Yeniköy, which offers eggplant with grape molasses, artichokes and stuffed cabbage with beef, among other things. Foxy Nişantaşı, which has delicious appetizers with local wine pairings, is also a favourite. While Turkey is most known for its traditional rakı drink, an anise-flavoured spirit, Turkish wine is worth trying too. The roots of winemaking in Turkey and Anatolia can be traced back thousands of years. I recommend tasting wine from local brands made from indigenous grapes like Emir, Bornova Misketi, Narince, Öküzgözü and Boğazkere.
Definitive street food: Similar to a bagel, the simit is a Turkish bread covered with sesame seeds and baked until golden. You can find simit vendors at every corner throughout the day, with many commuters grabbing one on their way to work in the mornings. It is crunchy on the outside, soft and warm inside, and usually accompanied by a glass of black tea. Another staple of Istanbul cuisine is börek, a flaky, savoury pastry that comes in various shapes and fillings, such as a mix of spinach and cheese or minced meat.
Not to miss: When wandering around Istanbul, you may come across little standalone restaurants without seating or with just a couple of stools inside. These places are what we call büfe, small snackbars that offer a variety of warm sandwiches with different fillings. More than just quick eateries, büfes are a fixture in the lives of Istanbulites, with people usually queuing up in front of the good ones at lunchtime to grab a fast, affordable bite. I recommend trying a sandwich with melted cheese and braised meat, or kavurma, on grilled crispy bread. Enjoy it alongside a glass of squeezed orange juice or a frothy cup of ayran, a savoury yoghurt drink.
Getting away: Istanbul can be a bit overwhelming sometimes. To get a respite from the noise and the crowds, I like to spend my weekends walking around Yeniköy, a peaceful neighbourhood favoured by Turkey’s elite that offers tranquillity with its green landscapes, and cultural richness, with churches, mosques and synagogues side by side. You can rent a bike, enjoy a brunch at the cafes on the main street or drop by historic Yeniköy Börekçisi for Turkish pastries. I love to read a book and soak in the great Bosphorus view by climbing the hidden stairways to either the local tea shop Yeniköy Kahvesi, or Yeniköy Kitapcisi, a cozy bookstore.
Pro-tip: Since Turkey has been grappling with high inflation over the past couple of years, the prices of everything can change quite quickly. Make sure to ask the price of something if you cannot see a price tag on it as it may be more than you expected.
DATA POINTS
Price of a Turkish coffee: 100 lira ($2.60) from Yeniköy Kahvesi.
Price of a bottle of water: 10 lira ($0.25) for a bottle of Erikli water, available across the city.
Price of ice cream scoop: 130 lira ($3.40) from Mua Gelateria.
Great place to see a sunset: Any rooftop in the Pera area. One of my favourites is the rooftop bar at Simone.
Largest university: Istanbul University, around 70,000 students (Ezgi Erkoyun/Reuters)
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