Since I first moved here, Berlin has evolved from “poor but sexy”, as former Mayor Klaus Wowereit dubbed it in 2003, to an increasingly assertive – and pricey – capital city.
It still has the edgy club scene it has long been known for, but slick developments have been built over former squats, and rents have soared as Germany’s capital has attracted investors. That includes both big companies like Tesla – the U.S. electric vehicle maker’s first manufacturing plant in Europe opened here in 2022 – and enough startups for some to refer to it as Europe’s Silicon Valley.
As a Brit who studied German at university, I first worked for Reuters in Berlin as an intern in 2005, when Angela Merkel was campaigning to become chancellor. I went on to become an economics reporter during the years of the global financial crisis. Now I’m a political correspondent, covering stories that have ranged from Germany’s foreign policy in the wake of Russia’s invasion of Ukraine to the rise of the far right.
When visitors ask me for recommendations, here’s what I tell them:
Getting around: The best way to traverse this mainly flat city with broad avenues is by bike, which you can rent for as little as 9 euros ($10) a day. Pedestrians should beware the bike paths, as they will not be shown any compassion for absent-mindedly straying upon one.
I love how Berlin cycle rides take you on a journey through history and districts with distinct characters. My commute goes from the northeastern residential district of Prenzlauer Berg, with its elegant Wilhelmine buildings, through the erstwhile Jewish quarter of the Scheunenviertel with its plethora of art galleries, across Alexanderplatz with its Soviet-era office blocks, down to the Brandenburg Gate – a symbol of division during the Cold War.
Street food: My favourite Berlin fast-food is the falafel sandwich, which alongside the doner kebab is omnipresent in the city thanks to its large Middle Eastern population. The Lebanese snack bar Dada Falafel in the city centre is my go-to. Another Berlin street food is the currywurst sausage, cut into bite-sized pieces, slathered in curry ketchup, and served on a paper plate with fries. You can find it at stands across the city, including Curry 36.
Getting dressed: In Berlin, anything goes – it isn’t uncommon to see people on the subway wearing pyjamas, or professionals in leather leggings. The only thing that might attract snarky comments here is getting too dressed up – I was once asked if I was going to a wedding when I wore a nice dress to work. Dressing down is all part of the city’s self-image as being a bit edgy and poor, as well as the German functional approach to clothing.
Local news source: English-language online culture magazine The Berliner is a great source of news on the latest happenings. The Local is an online English-language source and lively podcast covering German news, aimed at expats, while Politico’s Berlin bulletin – daily in German or weekly in English – will give you the lowdown on politics in the German capital.
Book: A recent read was “Turning: Lessons from Swimming Berlin’s Lakes”, by Jessica J. Lee, a 2017 memoir that details the author’s experiences bathing throughout the year at the dozens of lakes in and around the city, including chipping away at the ice in winter. “Eisbaden,” or ice bathing, was popular here long before cold plunges became a global health fad.
Social norms: Public space in Germany can be quite hostile at times. Locals have no qualms shouting at you for contravening rules – whether that be cycling on a pavement or jaywalking, no matter how empty the road. There is also the “Berliner Schnauze” (Berlin snout), meaning a certain rudeness and coarse humour in social encounters.
Entertainment: In the summer,the riverside between the main railway station and the parliament comes alive every night with outdoor dancing, from bachata and salsa to kizomba and tango – on a donation-basis. Berlin is reputed to have the largest tango dance scene outside of Buenos Aires.
Relaxing: Berlin’s long, grey winters – we once had five weeks without the sun making an appearance – are made bearable by its spa culture, whether it be the Balinese oasis Vabali with its 10 saunas and luxurious relaxation rooms with water beds, or the pool in the domed hall of the Liquidrom, where underwater music is played by a DJ.
In warmer months, the lakes in and around the city are perfect for a picnic or afterwork dip. Just don’t be surprised by the nudist bathing areas. This city is anything but prude.
DATA POINTS
Population: 3.6 million
New business: MGI Tech European headquarters
City investment plan: 12.5 million euros ($13.2 million) to host US National Football League games
Median new home price: 8,320 euros ($8,798) per square metre
Sources: Berlin.de; MGI Tech Co; Guthmann Estate (Reuters)
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