I first arrived in the United Arab Emirates in 2012 from my native Egypt. I had just covered the tumultuous events of the 2011 Egyptian revolution from the Reuters Cairo bureau, fresh with the emotional upheaval a reporter goes through when writing about seismic events at home.
Initially I lived in the UAE capital of Abu Dhabi. But like many UAE expats, I found myself regularly making the one-hour drive from Abu Dhabi to the thriving tourism hub of Dubai, for both work and leisure. For most outsiders, Dubai is associated with extreme wealth, skyscrapers and – more recently – the Dubai chocolate bar, a delicious mix of pistachio, kunafa and milk chocolate that has gone viral. The city grew on me, and I finally moved here in 2017.
Home to the world’s tallest building – the more than half-mile tall Burj Khalifa – Dubai has grown over the last 20 years to become a global business hub. In over a decade of covering the Middle East from the UAE, most recently as Gulf bureau chief, I have witnessed the city expand with ever more ambitious projects, increasing traffic, and rising numbers of expats lured by all Dubai has to offer.
Dubai has a reputation for wanting to do everything bigger and better. But the true charm of the city lies in its unique mosaic of communities, each bringing their own culture, food and festivities. Since moving here, I have found a Dubai far from all the bling, hype and grandeur.
Here’s how to do Dubai the local way:
What to eat: Because each community brings its flavours to the emirate, Dubai has become well-known for its rich culinary experiences, and there are more than a dozenMichelin-starred restaurants. Here you will find some of the world’s best Indian, Pakistani, Levantine, Philippine and, most importantly for me, Egyptian food.
Having grown up in Alexandria, I often yearned for my weekly fix of freshly grilled seafood when I first landed in the UAE. I’ve since found the perfect spot in Dubai’s Jumeirah district, Sardina. Here you can feast on the tiny fish psaria – a famous Alexandrian appetizer copied from the neighbouring Greeks – and have your sea bass grilled the Singari way, just like you would on Alexandria’s Mediterranean coast. When Egyptians eat seafood, they feast on it. A typical meal of fish, shrimp, crabs and appetizers at Sardina will cost you around $200 and feed four people. Not bad for a city where an average cup of coffee costs around $5!
Locals, and the large South Asian community here, don’t go for coffee on most mornings. The definitive drink of choice is Karak chai, a sweet and delicious mix of tea, spices and milk which costs around 50 cents and is sold at kiosks and gas stations. I tried my first Karak at one of the city’s posher cafes, where you could also order it with less sugar than the traditional version, and it was just as good.
Get active: Fitness culture in Dubai is big and growing. An annual month-long fitness challenge, the Dubai 30×30, takes place every year from late October. Walking around the city during the Dubai 30×30, you will find free classes at various popular spots for a multitude of sports that you can try out, while many fitness centres offer free activities.
I have found solace in ballet since I was 5 years old but had struggled to find a good ballet studio in Dubai when I first moved here. The influx of Eastern Europeans into the city following Russia’s invasion of Ukraine in 2022 brought with it canned Borscht to supermarkets, banyas (Russian-style saunas), and, more importantly for me, adult ballet learning centres. My go-to isthe Levita ballet studio in Dubai’s popular Marina district.
Dubai weather: Dubai has two seasons – hot, and extremelyhot. Pleasant summer weather starts in October or November and lasts until around the end of April. Extreme heat, the kind that allows you to cook your eggs on the pavement, takes hold for the rest of the year.
You can make the most of nice weather by taking long walks or jogs on Kite Beach, where you can get a view of the famous Burj Al Arab hotel, one of Dubai’s most recognizable architectural standouts. Good weather season is also prime time for hiking, with many desert retreats only an hour or less away. Among the most popular are in nearby Hatta and the Fossil Rock Nature Reserve in Sharjah.
Faux pas: While Dubai is a party town known for its concerts, late nights, and liberal alcohol rules, there are some definite faux pas that foreigners should be aware of to avoid offending the local population and landing in trouble. Emirati culture is conservative and, while there is no general dress code, you will find signs in some government buildings and other public places telling you to dress modestly. The bar for this is usually your own common sense, but it largely depends on where you are going. And be warned: There are strict rules against public displays of affection.
Dubai perks: You may have come across a social media trend where people are intentionally leaving their Hermès Birkin bags and other expensive belongings unattended in public spaces for hours, only to return and find them untouched. Safety is definitely a Dubai perk, and I have often had to remind myself when travelling abroad to be more aware of my personal belongings in public, having lived here for so long.
DATA POINTS
Price of a Dubai chocolate bar: 68.25 AED ($18) for the original Fix Dessert Chocolatier, which is available on the food-delivery app Deliveroo.
Most popular cars: Toyota Land Cruiserand Nissan Patrol, mostly in white. But it’s not unusual to spot Bentleys, Rolls-Royces and Ferraris on the road.
Popular place to see a sunset: Kite Beach is free and doesn’t require any reservations. However, you can also purchase a 165 AED ($45) ticket to The View at the Palm Jumeirah, the man-made island where Dubai’s richest live. A VIP fast-track ticket will set you back 240 AED ($66), but it grants you access to the VIP lounge on Level 52 and the highest viewing point on Level 54.
Popular Dubai conversation topics: Real estate, the weather, Dubai traffic
Popular homegrown brands: The Giving Movement athleisure, Pickl burgers (Maha El Dahan/Reuters)
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