Bangkok isn't just Bangkok. Its voluminous Thai name translates to: The city of angels, the great city, the eternal jewel city, the impregnable city of God Indra, the grand capital of the world endowed with nine precious gems, the happy city, abounding in an enormous royal palace that resembles the heavenly abode where reigns the reincarnated God, a city given by Indra and built by Vishnukarn. Thailand's capital is all that: A gleaming modern metropolis rooted in its royal past, a syncretic crossroads of cultures where the sacred share walls with the scurrilous, a riverside city of gaudy wealth and simple pleasures. I first came to Bangkok in January 2012, then a greenhorn reporter based in staid Singapore, and immediately fell for its old-world charm, organised chaos and fiery cuis...
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