“The mysterious and sublime seal that unites Europe to Asia,” was how the French writer Gérard de Nerval wrote of Istanbul in the 19th century after visiting what he called the most beautiful city in the world. Turkey's largest city has changed immensely over the last two centuries, and even since I first arrived here in 2009, yet it retains an alluring power that has enchanted travellers throughout history, witha breathtaking setting straddling the European and Asian shores of the Bosphorus Strait. After 16 years of living here — first as a student and then as a journalist, most recently as a breaking news correspondent for Reuters — I am still astonished by the vibrancy and rich culture of this city of 16 million people. Walking through its streets, you can’t help but feel the weight...
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