A place of understated luxury, where wealth is visible but rarely loud
When I first moved to Abu Dhabi from Cairoas a child in 2002, the United Arab Emirates capital had just two malls, a sleepy skyline and a long stretch of coast that quickly became an escape. I’d cycle along it with headphones on, the sea on one side and the city slowly rising on the other.
I left for college in 2011 and moved to Dubai in 2024 to cover commodities for Reuters. But I still visit my parents in Abu Dhabi most weekends, with every visit reminding me how much the city has changed — and how much it hasn’t.
Today, Abu Dhabi is a global name: the host of the Formula 1 season finale, future home to the Middle East’s first Disneyland, and a cinematic backdrop for “Dune” and “Star Wars,” with the surrounding desert inspiring composers like Hans Zimmer. It’s also the world’s richest city when measured by sovereign wealth assets, though it’s still a place of understated luxury, where wealth is visible but rarely loud.
But a lot of the things I like most about the city remain the same: its family barbecues in parks like Khalifa and Umm Al Emarat when the weather cools, its skyline view from the Breakwater near Marina Mall, and its Corniche, along which I still cycle, decades later. The city has grown, but its soulremains much the same.
Here’s how to visit Abu Dhabi city like a local:
What to do: A perfect day in Abu Dhabi starts on Saadiyat Island,just 500 metres (1,600 feet) off the coast, where you can swim in clear turquoise waters and lounge at a beach club.
As the sun sets, I like to head to Antonia, a cosy Italian spot where the pizza is great and the atmosphere is casual yet elegant. Antonia sits on Mamsha Al Saadiyat, a sleek beachfront promenade that didn’t exist when I was growing up. Today, it’s one of the city’s most magnetic places — a 1.4-km (nearly mile-long) stretch of white sand, modern architecture, and restaurants that feel curated rather than commercial. Families, joggers, and art lovers mingle here; the Louvre Abu Dhabi art museum is just steps away.
What to eat and drink: Abu Dhabi’s food scene is a reflection of its identity — rooted in tradition, yet open to the world. For authentic Emirati cuisine, Al Fanar Restaurant & Café offers a traditional experience, serving dishes like Machboos (spiced chicken and rice), Harees (a savoury porridge served with meat), and seafood trays in a setting that recreates old UAE streetscapes.
Mina Zayed Market is a portside hub where locals shop for fresh fish, fruits, and spices. The area is evolving into a lifestyle destination, where homegrown restaurants include Ryba for seafood and Marmellata, a cosy counter-service pizzeria. Abu Dhabi’s dining options range from shawarma stands and karak tea stalls to Michelin-starred restaurants and global chains — a mix of high-end elegance and everyday comfort.
What to buy: Arabs love gold. We gift it to newborns, wear it at weddings, and mark milestones with it. The UAE is one of the world’s biggest hubs for the gold trade. Dubai’s Gold Souk, just a short drive away, has been a magnet for buyers for over 80 years, but Abu Dhabi holds its own.
Abu Dhabi’s Gold Souk, tucked inside Madinat Zayed Shopping Centre, isa glittering arcade of shops offering everything from delicate bangles to bold bridal sets. Shoppers spend hours comparing designs, haggling over fees, and checking the day’s gold rate. Within the Arab world, Abu Dhabi has a reputation for the best prices and quality, and visitors to the city are always asked to make purchases by friends and family back home.
Hot ticket: In 2009, it was the Formula 1 Grand Prix. Today, it still is — only bigger and louder. Held every December at the Yas Marina Circuit, the Abu Dhabi Grand Prix is the final race of the F1 season, drawing global attention and thousands of fans. What makes it special isn’t just the high-stakes racing, but the Yasalam After-Race Concerts, which have featured artists like Beyoncé, Eminem, and Guns N’ Roses — all free with a race ticket. This year’s line-up includes Benson Boone, Post Malone, Metallica, and Katy Perry. Tickets start at AED 995 ($271) for generaladmission. It’sarguably Abu Dhabi’s biggest cultural moment of the year.
Getting away: When I need to unplug, I head to Jebel Hafeet, a towering limestone mountain that rises dramatically from the desert near Al Ain, an oasis city by the Oman border. At a height of 1,249 metres (4,097 ft), it’s the UAE’s second-highest peak and a favourite for road trippers, cyclists, or anyone craving cooler air and sweeping views.
The drive to the summit is an experience of nature in a desert country — 11.7 kilometres (7.3 miles) of winding switchbacks carved into ancient rock, offering the kind of expansive views you start to crave when city life gets too loud.
At the base, Jebel Hafeet Desert Park offers hiking trails, camel rides, and even glamping tents. The area is also home to 5,000-year-old tombs, part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site, making it not just a retreat but a journey into the region’s deep past.
Biggest misconception: Back in the day, I’d tell people I lived in Dubai because no one had heard of Abu Dhabi. For years, it was in the shadow of its larger, buzzier neighbour and was often dismissed as boring.
Butwhile Dubai dazzles with noise and novelty, Abu Dhabi offers something quieter, more intentional. As I’ve grown older — and,like many millennials, increasingly prioritize mental health and a balanced life — I’ve seen more young families choose to live in Abu Dhabi while working in Dubai. They’re drawn by its slower pace, its focus on wellbeing, and its sense of calm.
CITY MEMO DATA POINTS
Price of a coffee: 22 AED ($6) for an americano from LOCAL Café’s Louvre Abu Dhabi pop-up — a serene spot under the museum’s dome. Entry to the dome is free after 4:30 PM if you mention you’re visiting LOCAL.
Price of a dessert: 17 AED ($4.60) for a slice of the signature chocolate cake at Miss J Café, a nostalgic favourite for longtime residents.
Great place to see a sunset: Mirage Marine Cafe near Emirates Palace, if you fancy a hookah, or the Abu Dhabi Corniche — ideal for runners and cyclists.
Price of fuel: 2.66 AED per litre ($0.72), well below the global average of $1.29.
Local artist to know: Hamda Al Fahim, an Abu Dhabi-based fashion designer known for couture gowns and bridal wear. Her creations grace red carpets around the world.
You must be logged in to post a comment.