I arrived in Shanghai in the summer of 2014, eager to cover the story of China’s rise as a global economic power and to explore the intricacies of my ancestral homeland, my grandparents having left south China in the 1930s for Singapore.
Shanghai, China’s commercial hub, was back then and still is a feast for the senses – a combination of the old and new, with some of the world’s tallest skyscrapers mixed in with early 1900s architecture, remnants of the city’s Art Deco building boom. There are highways choked with snazzy electric vehicles and sleepy boulevards lined with trees and cafes.
My arrival here coincided with the boom years, as state-to-private enterprises jostled to expand abroad and Shanghai pitched itself aggressively to the world as a top financial center. When COVID hit, China turned inward, culminating in a two-month lockdown of the city’s 26 million people in 2022 that left the city silent and its roads surrounded with police tape.
My job has given me the chance to travel all around China to handle stories that range from its economy to politics, but I am mainly responsible for covering China’s corporate giants and how foreign businesses fare in the world’s second-largest economy. Living in China has taught me to expect the unexpected because this country, and city, constantly surprises.
What’s cooking: Xiaolongbao or “little basket bun” is originally from eastern China, but Shanghai has basically claimed it as its own, with every decent Shanghainese eatery offering its own version. The best is always freshly made, involving a wafer thin dumpling skin encasing a rich glob of pork and soup. The best way to eat one is to nibble a tiny hole to suck out the soup before munching on the rest of the dumpling. And don’t forget to dip it in the ginger-infused vinegar that tends to be served alongside. One popular eatery is Jia Jia Tang Bao on Huanghe Road near the city’s central People’s Square.
Another must-try in Shanghai is scallion oil noodles, a traditional street food of scallions or green onions, that are slowly caramelized in oil before the mixture is tossed with freshly cooked noodles and sauces such as light soy sauce and sugar.
Hot styles: Like many places, Shanghai has been grappling with extreme heat during the summers. What is especially popular here are all sorts of cover-ups that are infused with UV protection technology. Options range from a big hat, a windbreaker, gloves, arm sleeves, trousers and even a “facekini,” which can be bought anywhere from market stalls to the outlets of local and international brands.
Communicating: Shanghai, and the rest of China, runs on WeChat – the super app that can do it all, from chats to payments to following the local news. Also popular here is the local version of TikTok – Douyin – with every domestic news outlet having an account where they publish articles, videos and content.
Getting around: The best way – hands down – to get around Shanghai is via bicycle, to take advantage of the city’s flat streets and well-planned bicycle paths. Shared bikes are available on every street corner with the swipe of a QR code, which foreign visitors can also access by using payment apps such as Alipay. A half hour ride can cost as little as 1.5 yuan ($0.20).
Getting away: China’s high-speed railway network is extensive and affordable. Riders can get to Beijing within five hours on a very comfortable train. When I can, I like to get away to the Chinese countryside, and one favorite area of mine is Wuyuan county in Jiangxi province, which is about a three-hour train ride away and houses a cluster of ancient villages. In the spring, its rapeseed fields bloom with bright yellow.
I also like to hike up Mount Sanqingshan, which provides an arresting view with its granite peaks and pillars. Not far from the area is Jingdezhen, known as China’s porcelain capital. It supplied pottery to China’s imperial household for thousands of years and still houses several local pottery workshops and stores.
Pop art: The Shanghai star of the moment is a locally born actor named Hu Ge, who stars in “Blossoms”, a Chinese television series that started airing in December. He plays a young man who rises from humble beginnings to become a self-made millionaire in 1990s Shanghai. The show, directed by famed Shanghai-born director Wong Kar Wai, has become a hit with fans who say it evokes nostalgia for the city’s era of possibility and optimism. In recent months it has driven much local tourism to the city, especially to places it features, including restaurants and landmarks such as the Peace Hotel. (Brenda Goh/Reuters)
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