Welcome to London, one of the world’s very few truly global cities.
I was born and raised here. I roamed London’s streets as a teenager and got my first job in the city as a reporter for the Kensington and Chelsea Times. Journalism then took me around the world for more than 20 years before I returned to rediscover London in 2013 as chief UK economics correspondent for Reuters.
This is a place where new communities are springing up all the time, adding languages, food and music to the city’s already diverse culture.
The guidebooks do a fine job of steering visitors around the many tourism hotspots. But if you want to experience London like a Londoner, here’s how:
Getting around: London is huge. Covering about 1,570 square kilometres (606 square miles), it’s twice the size of New York City and bigger than sprawling Los Angeles too. Luckily, it has a huge public transport network to match, so unless you love sitting in traffic jams, you can zip around above and below ground for a fraction of the cost of a taxi. Transport for London’s TfL Go app and Google Maps are good for directions. If you’re going east-west, use the Elizabeth Line, the new jewel in the crown of the Tube that makes Heathrow Airport easy to reach. Buses are slower but you’ll see more of London than its tunnels. Confident cyclists can pick up a Lime, Forest or Santander e-bike. It’s often the fastest way around. Bikemap is a good app for finding the best routes, including the ones away from the heaviest car traffic. Wear a helmet, be careful and stop at the red lights even if locals don’t!
Go for a walk: The public transport network notwithstanding, the best way to discover this city is to walk it. London is dotted with parks, while paths alongside the River Thames and the canals in the east and the west make for great strolls, too. Here’s one walk I love: Start at the Cutty Sark ship in its dry dock in Greenwich and walk downstream alongside the Thames to The Cutty Sark pub (refreshment optional). Then head to Greenwich Park and climb the hill for fine views from the Royal Observatory, where you’ll find the Prime Meridian line separating the Eastern and Western hemispheres. Wander down to the shops and cafes (and pubs!) of Greenwich before returning to the centre of London by the Southeastern train from Greenwich station, the Docklands Light Railway, or the Thames Clippers boat service, which gives you a different sense of the city.
If you’re feeling more energetic, try one of the weekly 5km parkrun events held in parks and public spaces all over the city at 9am on Saturdays (they start promptly, so arrive 10 minutes early). They’re free, fun and if you sign up on the parkrun website, you’ll get a recorded time to beat the next time.
Jazz nights: London is one of the world’s most dynamic cities for jazz, with wave after wave of young performers forging their own sounds. The Vortex in the Dalston area of East London has shows almost every night of the week, often featuring artists who also appear at the world-famous Ronnie Scott’s in Soho for less than half the ticket price. The Thursday night jazz re:freshed gigs on Brick Lane and the Heads Up shows at PizzaExpress in Soho showcase young UK talent and the crowd is just as hip. The Jazz in the Round nights at the Cockpit Theatre in Marylebone, on the last Monday of each month (except December and August), feature both new and more established bands. Music listings of all genres are on the oddly named but very complete Halibuts website and I play a lot of new UK jazz in my monthly “Billzinho” podcast.
For tunes to add to your London playlists, I recommend the late but still great Ian Dury, who brought his cheeky Cockney charm to the music of The Blockheads, including their 1979 UK chart-topper “Hit Me with Your Rhythm Stick.” For contemporary sounds, Ezra Collective and Kokoroko mash up the beats of West Africa with the city’s musical energy. Sultan Stevenson and Emma Rawicz are two of London’s young jazz stars.
Pubs: The UK has lost about a quarter of its pubs and bars over the past 20 years, but the good news is that there are still more than 3,000 to choose from in the capital. Among my favourites are: The Angel at Rotherhithe, an old-school boozer perched on the south bank of the Thames with unrivalled views of Tower Bridge and the City of London’s skyscrapers; The French House in Soho, famous for its arty crowd and for serving beer only in half pints; and West London’s The Waterway, which is wedged between the mansions of Little Venice and the Grand Union Canal where you can drink and eat as barges chug by.
What to eat: You don’t need to go fancy in London to find tasty food. Hawler on Edgware Road serves Middle Eastern specialities such as hummus, falafel, and grilled meat. Try the generous cold meze plate which comes with delicious breads. On the east side of town, Tayyabs in Whitechapel is a full-on curry experience — the plates sizzle when served and the atmosphere is buzzing. Do be sure to make a reservation. A quieter place for dinner is Simplicity, tucked away in London’s historic docks area, near Rotherhithe station. Chef Lawrence Lingard takes inspiration from both his Indian and Scottish family heritage.
Getting away: It’s just as easy to leave London as it is to get around it. For a respite from city life, I head for the rolling countryside of Kent, the county known as “The Garden of England.” One itinerary: Take a train from London Blackfriars station for an hour to Shoreham (not Shoreham-by-Sea!) where the crystal-clear River Darent wends its way between old houses, a church dating back to the 15th century and vineyards. Follow the river north or hike through the hills — some of them are steep! — to Eynsford (where there is a fascinating Roman villa) and take the train back. Best pub: The Samuel Palmer in Shoreham.
Biggest faux pas: There are very few. London is so big and bustling, with so many people doing so many different things, no one is going to judge you much. But any visitor who wishes to avoid incurring the wrath of impatient commuters should not stand on the left side of the Tube escalators.
DATA POINTS:
Population: 9 million
Price of a cup of coffee: £3.80 ($5) for a cappuccino from the iconic Bar Italia in Soho.
Price of an ice cream: £5.50 ($7.20) for a single scoop from Udderlicious, an independent ice cream parlour with locations across the city.
Great place to see a sunset: The Sail Loft, a modern riverside pub in Greenwich with sweeping views of the Thames.
Essential read: “London: The Biography,” by Peter Ackroyd, which covers everything from the days of the Romans to a history of drinking.
Unexpected wildlife sightings: Green parakeets abound in the parks and gardens of the city. Foxes outnumber pedestrians in some streets late at night. And if you’re really lucky, you might see a seal in the Thames. (William Schomberg/Reuters)
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