Like most Parisians, I’m a transplant from elsewhere — specifically sunny Provence, where it’s practically a civic duty to cheer for the rival football team, Olympique de Marseille, and complain about the haughty residents of the French capital.
But as the French actor Sacha Guitry once said, “Being a Parisian is not about being born in Paris; it’s about being reborn there.” I first moved to Paris in my early twenties and, like many before me, was immediately enthralled by the city. But Paris felt like a sleeping beauty in the early 2000s: the economy was stagnant, unemployment was high, and losing the 2012 Olympic bid to London made it feel as though the future was being written elsewhere. By the time I returned to the city in 2012 as an energy correspondent for Reuters following stints in London and Milan, Paris felt a bit rundown — and even gloomy in the wake of Islamist attacks in2015.
But in the years since, I’ve witnessed the city’s powerful renaissance, fuelled by a combination of pro-business reforms, infrastructure investments and an influx of wealth into the city post-Brexit. From tech to cuisine, fashion to pop culture, the City of Lights feels like it’s shining bright once again. Last year’s Olympics was just the cherry on top.
TylerBrûlé, the Canadian media guru behind Monocle magazine who recently opened a bureau-cum-café in Paris, told me thecity is firmly back in the global conversation. “There’s been this export of French soft power,” he said, noting popular TV shows such as “Emily in Paris” and “The Bureau”, which “captured a certain essence of Paris.” But nothing beats experiencing the place for yourself. Here’s how to enjoy Paris, the local way:
Getting around: Paris has seen a real cycling boom over the past few years. Thanks to Mayor Anne Hidalgo, some 1,000 km (620 miles) of bike lanes now crisscross the city and many take advantage of the Velib bikeshare system. Riding a Velib bike to meetings or weekend brunch is one of my favourite ways of going about the city.
If you’re not keen on cycling, the Paris Metro can take you most anywhere you need to go for as little as 2.50 euros ($2.80) a ticket. Conveniently for visitors, the extended Line 14 now reaches Orly Airport, bringing the journey from the airport to the city centre to under 20 minutes. If you can, skip Charles de Gaulle and fly into Orly instead. It will save you a lot of time and hassle.
What not to do: Climbing the Eiffel Tower, taking the crowded metro to the Arc de Triomphe and waiting hours in line for a selfie with the Mona Lisa, as many visitors are wont to do, wastes time and misses what really makes Paris magical. My advice: Skip them, especially the Eiffel Tower climb. The queues are endless, the base is packed with peddlers and pickpockets, and the view isn’t even the best. Admire the Iron Lady from afar instead — my favourite viewpoint is the rooftop terrace of Galeries Lafayette.
And then do as Parisians do: Take a riverside stroll along the River Seine, explore bohemian or chic neighbourhoods, grab a café table, and indulge in a long session of people-watching.
Be a flâneur: Start in the northern Marais district, buy a falafel in the Jewish quarter or a vanilla waffle from the pastry shop Méert, and picnic in the lovely Jardin de l’Hôtel-Salé near the Picasso Museum. Nearby, the Museum of Hunting and Nature is a quirky and wonderful cabinet of curiosities — part taxidermy treasure trove, part hunting history. It’s great for families.
From there, you can continue north to Canal Saint-Martin for l’apéro — after-work drinks with locals by the water. The Right Bank is the new Left Bank and is where everything is happening these days.
Avoid tourist traps like the Champs-Élysées or the Latin Quarter and instead wander South Pigalle, or SoPi, where poets and writers like Baudelaire and Zola once roamed. Lunch at Café Mansart, visit the Museum of Romantic Life (reopening next year after a short renovation) and enjoy a café crème in its hidden garden.
Lunch-time: After a lull in the early 2000s, the Paris food scene has come roaring back, energized by global influences and a new generation of chefs reimagining French classics. For great French food without a Michelin price tag, try a bouillon — traditional brasseries known for hearty meals at fair prices. At Bouillon Pigalle, you can enjoy classics like blanquette de veau (veal stew), beef bourguignon, or onion soup. You can expect queues at peak times, but it’s worth the wait. A full three-course meal with wine costs around 22 euros ($25) — a steal in one of the world’s most expensive cities.
Another favourite food spot of mine is the Passage des Panoramas, an atmospheric covered arcade with a diverse French and international food offering. Paris is not just about steak frites and other French classics these days; it can also delight you with empanadas, gyoza bars and bao buns, often with a French twist.
What to buy: After lunch, continue north across the boulevard to Passage Jouffroy, where you’ll find shops with vintage maps, original photographs of French movie legends and old paintings from the local auction houses.
Rather than staying on the wide boulevards opened by Baron Haussmann in the 19th century, I’d recommend visiting the micro villages dotted around the city. It’s one of the wonderful things about Paris that neither the pandemic nor Amazon have managed to kill the high street, and each neighbourhood often has its own market street, with a local butcher, cheesemonger and bakery. Rue de Bretagne and the Enfants-Rouges market in the 3rd arrondissement, Rue des Martyrs in the 9th, Rue Lepic in the 18th or Marché d’Aligre in the 12th are only but a few of these foodie havens Paris is all about.
Cultural faux pas: Contrary to popular belief, Parisians are not rude — they are just particular about manners. Always begin with a “bonjour” when addressing someone. A simple “excuse me” won’t cut it. Shop assistants may even passive-aggressively correct you with a pointed “bonjour,” waiting for the return greeting before proceeding. You don’t want that.
CITY MEMO DATA POINTS:
Population: Paris “intra-muros” (the city proper, with its 19th century administrative limits) has just over 2 million people. But the wider Paris region, which gives you a better sense of thecity’s scale, has over 12 million.
Price of a cup of coffee: 4.90 euros ($5.50) for a café crème (a foamy latte) and 2.70 euros ($3) for a noisette (an espresso with a touch of milk) at Café Marguerite on Rue des Martyrs.
Good public bathroom: Bibliothèque Richelieu. It is immaculately clean, free and a great excuse to visit the newly renovated national library and its stunning Oval reading room.
Great place to see a sunset: There are many, but the steps of the Sacré-Coeur remain iconic. For something more local, head to Buttes-Chaumont park with some wine, cheese and saucisson, and enjoy the view.
Popular influencer: Cecilia Jourdan, the woman behind the Instagram account @hellofrench, offers English speakers a refreshingly candid, cool, and grounded view of Paris and French culture, as well as tips on learning French. (Michel Rose/Reuters)
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