To outsiders, Singapore is often thought of asa typical financial capital, with clean streets, efficient services and a high standard of living. While that image holds some truth, it only tells part of the story. Beneath its polished surface is a multicultural society and flourishing creative scene, whereglobal ideas are constantly reimagined through local perspectives. Its rapid pace of urban renewal means there is always something new to discover — if you know where to look.
I work as a data visualization columnist at Reuters Breakingviews in Britain, but I grew up in Singapore and my frequent trips back home often involve revisiting old haunts across the city. Some places no longer exist, but thankfully most have stuck around. Here’s my guide to exploring the island like a local:
Getting around: Singapore’spublic transportation system is renowned foritsreliability — so much so that rare service disruptions often make national headlines. Several new Mass Rapid Transit (MRT) train lines have sprung up in recent years, making it even easier to get around. But for a slower and more scenic journey, try the the 48 bus route, which takes you from the eastern housing estates through to the tree-lined East Coast Parkway, where the view eventually opens outover the Benjamin Sheares Bridge, flanked by the Singapore Strait and the Kallang Basin, before you enter the city proper.
What to eat: There is no single definitive dish in Singaporean cuisine, so the most appropriate way to get acquainted with the local palate is to visit a hawker centre. In the 1960s, street food vendors were corralled into a more formal market, leading to the creation of these state-built centres that function as community dining rooms with affordableprices. Most, if not all, of the 122 hawker centres dotted across the city-state serve variations of the same theme — regional cuisines with a Singaporean sensibility.
Lagoon Food Village, commonly referred to as Lagoon, stands out. A first visit to this place by the seaside on the East Coast can be overwhelming, with billowing barbecue smoke and brightly lit stalls demanding your attention. Popular dishes include sambal kangkong (water spinach stir-fried with a spicy sauce), sambal stingray, orh luak (small oysters mixed into an omelette), or hokkien mee (egg noodles stir-fried with seafood), all paired with fresh sugarcane or coconut juice. After your meal, complete your visit by taking a walk by the beach on Lagoon’s doorstep. Not every stall is open during the weekdays, so making a weekend trip is key for the full experience. It’s not a fast-food outlet, so be prepared to wait, and return your tray at the end. Note that locals will often save seats by placing packets of tissue paper on the table.
For those looking to dive deeper into hawker culture, make a trip down to the bustling Bedok Interchange. A personal favourite here is the family-run Inspirasi (Malay for “inspiration”) stall that has been serving Malay classics like soto ayam and mee rebus(noodles submerged in a chicken broth and a thick gravy made from sweet potatoes, fermented soybeans and dried shrimp, respectively)since 1970 at prices that have somehow defied inflation. Treat yourself to an extra side of bergedil (fried potato patties) for just $0.50 and ask for extra sambal if you have a high tolerance for spice. The nearby Fengshan Food Centre in Block 85 also offers stalls serving Chinese-leaning dishes like prawn noodles, satay bee hoon (vermicelli noodles served with peanut sauce), and oyster cakes, allof which have established a loyal following.
What to see: For a crash course in Singapore’s history, head to City Hall. The corridors of the sprawling neoclassical building have witnessed pivotal moments, from the surrender of the Japanese Imperial Army at the end of World War Two to the swearing-in of the country’s first elected government in 1959. Today, the building hosts the National Gallery, the world’s largest collection of Southeast Asian art, and a leisurely afternoon exploring its many nooks and hallways is a great way to escape the heat outside. The permanent collection featuring regional artists from the mid-1800s through to the post-colonial era is a must-see, as is the Rotunda Library, filled with zines and booklets from long-forgotten art collectives.
A deeper history of the city as a trading port and its centuries-old links with Southeast Asia can be found in the Asian Civilisations Museum nearby, where artifacts speak to the sheer diversity of the region. For more contemporary perspectives, the Singapore Art Museum, temporarily situated at the Tanjong Pagar Distripark, is always worth a trip, while Cuturi Gallery on Aliwal Street is an excellent place to discover emerging artists from Singapore and elsewhere. Wind down the day by visiting the many cafes and bars of Katong, a once-sleepy neighbourhood that has retained its charm despite significant development in and around the area in recent years.
A brief escape: With enough planning, you can get to the beaches of Malaysia and Indonesia on budget airlines in less than two hours. Alternatively, for around $15, a ferry ride to Singapore’s southern islands — St John’s, Lazarus, Kusu, and Sisters’ — offers a peaceful day-trip escape from the city.On weekdays, you might even have the whole island to yourself if you’re lucky. The tropical, green spaces of Bukit Timah Nature Reserve and Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve also make for great getaways from the concrete jungle — just be sure to pack insect repellent.
CITY MEMO DATA POINTS
- Population: 6.04 million
- Size: 735.7km², or 240 square miles
- Weather: Permanent summer with tropical levels of humidity and rainfall
- Price of a cup of coffee: A cup of kopi c (black coffee with milk) from a hawker centre will cost you roughly $1.80, while cafes can charge upwards of $6.
- Great place to see a sunset: East Coast Beach, or the open areas on the boardwalk right by the Fullerton Bay hotel.
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